Looking for the Edge of the Last Frontier? Nestled amidst the majestic Wrangell-St. Elias National Park lies McCarthy, Alaska; a town steeped in history and teeming with unparalleled adventure potential. This hidden little gem can be difficult to reach, but beckons to be explored.
In this article, we’ll cover all the things you can do in McCarthy, Alaska. From exploring the remnants of the Kennicott copper mine to navigating epic glacier hikes, we’ll equip you with all the information you need to create an unforgettable Alaskan experience!
Quick Guide to McCarthy, Alaska
My Experience in McCarthy, Alaska
I was hired by National Geographic Channel to film on a show following a family living in McCarthy. On and off I spent a full year there. It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. Sleeping in non insulated summer cabins and operating cameras in -30 degrees, well that was difficult, but the rewards out weighted the suffering and I think fondly of my time in McCarthy.
Calling McCarthy, Alaska a city would be a gross exaggeration; hell in the winter it ain’t even a town! But come mid may McCarthy, AK thaws out and turns into a bustling tourist hub. Naturally the network was more interested in seeing life off the grid and not what the local happy hour specials were; so the majority of our time there was during the shoulder and winter months.
We stayed at the blackburn cabins and commuted via snow machine and 4 wheeler. We filmed bear hunts, firewood gathering, fishing trips, and a whole lot more. I got to experience every angle of McCarthy, Alaska. Frozen fingers and all, it was pretty fantastic. I highly recommend visiting… in the summer.
McCarthy, Alaska History
McCarthy, Alaska, nestled amidst the majestic Wrangell-St Elias National Park, boasts a history as rich and rugged as the surrounding mountains. Its story is intertwined with the nearby mining town of Kennicott.
Born in the early 1900s as a wild counterpart to the strict Kennicott copper mine, McCarthy, Alaska, thrived on saloons and entertainment for miners. This rambunctious town boomed alongside the mine, then became a deserted shell after its closure in the 1930s. However, McCarthy wasn’t destined for dust.
A resurgence in adventure tourism in the 1970s breathed new life into the town, transforming it into a charming destination for outdoor enthusiasts seeking to explore the wonders of Wrangell-St Elias National Park. Today, McCarthy’s historic buildings whisper tales of its wild past, while its present caters to those drawn to Alaska’s rugged beauty.
Things to do in McCarthy, Alaska
McCarthy AK and the surrounding is an endless playground for all adventure seekers. Pick a damn direction and go! In the summer the town offers a ton of guided tours and services, but outside of the brief tourist season you’ll be on your own. Plan accordingly.
Wrangell St. Elias National Park
McCarthy, Alaska, is the gateway to the awe-inspiring Wrangell St. Elias National Park. Encompassing a staggering 13.2 million acres, it’s the largest national park in the United States by far. This massive park boasts the second-highest peak in the country at 18,008 feet. Towering glaciers, deep valleys, and wild rivers weave through the park, creating a landscape that is both awe-inspiring and challenging.
With McCarthy as your base camp, complete with experienced guides and outfitters, this Alaskan town serves as the key to unlocking the park’s untamed beauty. Hike on pristine trails, backpack into untouched wilderness, or witness the raw power of nature by getting up close to towering glaciers.
Kennicott Mine
Five miles up the road from McCarthy, the old Kennecott mining complex is one of the most remarkable historic sites in Alaska. The National Park Service has done extensive restoration work on the buildings, including the mill, the bunkhouse, and the powerhouse. You can wander the site on your own for free.
For the full experience, book a guided tour with St. Elias Alpine Guides. They hold the exclusive NPS concession for Kennecott, which means they’re the only ones who can take you inside the historic buildings and the 14-story mill itself. The tour runs about 2 hours and departs multiple times a day. Pair it with a morning glacier hike for an ideal one-day itinerary.
The history is worth knowing before you go: copper was discovered here in the early 1900s, Kennecott Copper Corporation built an entire town and transportation network to extract it (the misspelling of “Kennicott” vs. “Kennecott” traces back to a clerical error on the original paperwork — the town is Kennicott, the mine and historic landmark are Kennecott), and the mine operated from 1911 to 1938 before closing when copper prices dropped and the accessible ore ran out. At its peak it was one of the most productive copper mines in the world. Then everyone left overnight, and the buildings just sat there.
Shuttle vans run between McCarthy and the mine site for a small fee.
Glacier Tours
The Kennicott Glacier is impossible to ignore, it dominates the landscape above town and calls you toward it from the moment you arrive. Strap on ice cleats and get up on it. Guided glacier tours range from easy walks on the ice surface to full ice climbing expeditions for people who want to get into the technical stuff.
Root Glacier is the most accessible option, a 4-mile round trip trail from Kennicott that gets you right onto ancient blue ice. Kennicott Wilderness Guides run excellent tours at various difficulty levels and are the go-to outfitter in the area. Book in advance during peak season.
One thing worth saying: the glacier is retreating. It’s measurably smaller than it was ten years ago. If seeing it is on your list, don’t wait.
White Water Rafting
The glacier-fed rivers around McCarthy are cold, fast, and spectacular. Several outfitters run day trips and multi-day expeditions into the backcountry. Everything from calm glacier lake paddling for beginners to serious whitewater for experienced paddlers.
McCarthy River Tours & Outfitters, founded in 2010, and Copper Oar, running wilderness rafting trips in the park for over 20 years, are both well-regarded. Copper Oar’s full-day “raft and flightsee” combo trip is worth calling out specifically, it pairs whitewater with an aerial view of the park in one outing.
If you want to spend a week in the Wrangell-St. Elias backcountry with no roads and no crowds, a guided multi-day river expedition is one of the best ways to do it.
Hiking
Wrangell-St. Elias has trails for every level. Three worth knowing about specifically:
Root Glacier Trail: 4 miles round trip, easy, takes you from Kennicott directly onto the glacier. The most popular hike in the area and worth every step.
Bonanza Mine Trail: 9 miles round trip, 3,800 feet of elevation gain, steep and demanding. The views from the top, the confluence of the Root and Kennicott Glaciers spread out below you, are among the best in Alaska. Don’t underestimate it.
McCarthy-Kennicott Historical Trail: a flat, scenic walking/biking alternative to the 4.5-mile main road between the two towns. This was the original wagon road when the railroad was still running. Quieter and less dusty than the road, and a nice option if you don’t want to deal with shuttle traffic.
For serious backcountry hiking, Trek Alaska runs guided multi-day backpacking treks into Wrangell-St. Elias, plus other Alaska wilderness areas. Talk to the rangers at the Kennicott visitor center about conditions and permits before heading out on your own.
Museums & Cultural Centers
McCarthy-Kennicott Museum: Old photographs and mining artifacts covering local history. Located in the red railroad depot building at the split in the road. Open most summer afternoons. Small but worth a stop.
Wrangell Mountain Center: A nonprofit educational and arts center in an old hardware store. Runs programs and events through the summer covering wilderness, science, and arts. Worth checking their schedule if you’re in town for a few days.
Flight-Seeing
I was lucky enough to go up in a helicopter and help shoot aerials for our tv show in McCarthy. And let me tell ya, it’s even more beautiful from above. Soaring over the Wrangell Mountains and glaciers was the highlight of my entire time in the region. I highly recommend taking a flight-seeing tour in McCarthy, AK.
Wrangell Mountain Air does a slew of different options, starting with 50 minute flights for $315. two person minimum. They also do back country drop offs and rounders to Chitina.
Dog Sledding
A genuinely McCarthy-specific activity: Waylon’s Way Dog Sledding is a small, locally-run kennel where mushing isn’t a tourist gimmick, it’s how the operators actually live. Good option if you want something off the standard glacier-and-mine itinerary, or if you’re visiting in a season when other activities are limited.
McCarthy, Alaska Restaurants
Here are the few restaurants you’ll find in McCarthy, AK during the brief summer tourist season. If you’re making the icy trek during shoulder or winter months, make sure to pack lots of food. Cause if you ain’t shooting a moose for dinner, you’ll be eating snow cones and tree sap.
Roadside Potato
Everyone just calls it “The Potato,” and the nickname tells you what to order. It started as a food truck in 1995, parked in the tram station lot outside town before the footbridge existed, and has grown into a full open-air restaurant with indoor and outdoor seating, run today by owners Rebecca Bard and Ian Gyori. The menu changes but the hand-cut curly fries are the constant — get them with rosemary garlic, or smothered in sausage gravy, or stuffed into a burrito. It’s dog-friendly, it’s where locals and tourists end up sitting at the same table, and it’s open long hours daily in summer (roughly 7:30am–9pm). Seasonal only — closed in winter.
The Golden Saloon
This is where you go to drink your dinner. It’s the only bar in town and it can get rowdy. Theres’s usually live music and the foods actually pretty good, albeit it’s mostly bar food. Attached to the McCarthy Lodge. They also do a good hungover breakfast.
Salmon & Bear Restaurant
The fine dining surprise of McCarthy. Run out of an old cannery building by McCarthy Lodge Resort, Salmon & Bear has actual culinary chops — it was named to National Geographic Traveller’s Culinary Collection 50 list of world destination restaurants and has won the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence every year since 2020. Only 10 tables, and it sells out most summer nights, so reserve ahead. Chef Josh Slaughter works with foraged and fermented local ingredients, wild-caught Copper River Red Salmon, and a serious wine list. If you only have one nice dinner in McCarthy, this is it.
McCarthy Café
Grab-and-go baked goods, espresso, and ice cream, also run by McCarthy Lodge Resort. Good for a quick coffee before a hike or an ice cream after one.
Glacier View Grill
Located at Glacier View Campground on the west side of the Kennicott River, not to be confused with Kennicott Glacier Lodge up in Kennicott proper, this is a separate, more casual spot right near the footbridge area. Outdoor dining with real views of the Stairway Icefall and the peaks of Wrangell-St. Elias. Known for the Wrangell Mountain Burger, plus reindeer sausage, bratwurst, and other hearty Alaskan grill fare. Right next door is As the Glacier Melts Café for coffee, baked goods, and ice cream.
Kennicott Glacier Lodge Dining Room
Up in Kennicott proper, the lodge runs the only restaurant actually in Kennicott itself, and it’s worth knowing about even if you’re not staying there. Breakfast is a buffet (7–10am), lunch runs a real menu from noon to 3pm (Salmon Caesar salad, Alaskan fish tacos, a daily chef’s special), and dinner is a single nightly seating at 7pm with a fixed, plated menu that changes daily, think filet with roasted vegetables one night, chicken florentine the next. Reservations are required, and seating is limited enough that lodge guests get priority. If you’re not staying there, call ahead after noon the day before to see if they can fit you in. It’s pricier than downtown McCarthy, but the dining room itself, looking out at the glacier, is part of the draw.
The Mercantile
Not a restaurant, but worth knowing about if you’re self-catering. Locals just call it “The Merc“, a small general store with basic groceries, fresh produce, cheese, meat, ice cream cones, and a small beer and boxed wine selection, plus some basic hardware. Convenient, but prices are steep given the remoteness. If you’re camping or cooking during your stay, do your real grocery shopping in Anchorage, Palmer, Valdez, or Fairbanks before you head out, The Merc is for filling gaps, not stocking up.
*One practical note: restaurant hours in McCarthy shift with the season and with how busy any given summer is — confirm current hours directly before you go, especially if you’re arriving in shoulder season (May or September).
McCarthy, Alaska Lodging
McCarthy, Alaska offers a few unique lodging experiences, ranging from historic charm to rustic comfort, mostly all concentrated in the towns quaint little “downtown” area. Here’s a breakdown of your options McCarthy, Alaska lodging options:
Ma Johnson’s Hotel
If you’re going to stay anywhere in McCarthy proper, make it Ma Johnson’s. Built in 1923 as a boarding house by Pete and Ma Johnson, it’s been restored into what they call a “living museum”, every room has real artifacts pulled from the town’s mining days, from salvaged bed frames to handmade quilts, and there are no TVs or outlets to distract you from the fact that you’re sleeping inside a piece of Alaska history.
The rooms are genuinely small and bathrooms are shared, but it’s one of only two lodging options actually in downtown McCarthy, and the McCarthy Lodge restaurant and saloon right across the street is run by the same operation. Twenty rooms total, often booked solid in peak summer, so reserve ahead.
Kennicott Glacier Lodge
This unique spot wasn’t always a haven for adventure loving families and selfie snapping ticity tockers. It used to be the rough and tumble bunkhouse for miners working in the copper mine. Located just behind the historic mine, the lodge boasts a past as wild as the surrounding glaciers. Imagine hundreds of burly miners calling this place home during the copper boom of the early 1900s. Don’t worry, they’ve given a good cleaning and updating the drapes.
Today the Kennicott Glacier Lodge is one of the finest lodging options around McCarthy, Alaska. It’s been transformed into a comfy basecamp for modern explorers. Choose from rooms in the rustic Main Lodge, or opt for the privacy of the South Wing’s epic glacier view rooms. When looking for a hotel in McCarthy, Alaska the Kennicott Glacier Lodge doesn’t disappoint.
Currant Ridge Cabins
Located before the foot bridge to McCarthy, these log cabins are a great lodging option. With full kitchens and large decks with great views, you could stay here awhile.
Blackburn Cabins
This is where I lived for the better part of a year while working in McCarthy, Alaska. Nothing too fancy but a very serviceable cabin, for summer stays. Mark and Livvi are awesome hosts! Check out their website for more info.
McCarthy, Alaska Camping
Camping in McCarthy, Alaska offers a unique chance to immerse yourself in the Alaskan wilderness. Here’s a breakdown of your campground options in and around McCarthy AK:
Base Camp Kennicott
Located at the end of the McCarthy Road, this no-frills campground offers basic amenities like picnic tables and fire rings. Perfect for budget-minded campers who enjoy a remote setting.
Glacier View Campground
Situated near the edge of McCarthy, this campground offers more amenities than Base Camp Kennicott, including vault toilets and water hookups (though be sure to confirm availability during your visit). It boasts stunning views of the surrounding mountains.
Wrangell-St Elias National Park
The park offers several primitive campsites accessible by foot or trail. Permits are required, and backcountry camping experience is recommended due to the remoteness.
McCarthy, Alaska Weather
The weather in McCarthy, Alaska is a reflection of its wild and scenic surroundings. Prepare for year-round chilly temperatures, averaging around 30°F, with dramatic shifts in daylight hours throughout the seasons.
- Winter: I remember spending all of February in McCarthy and it never reaching above 0. The winter is obviously the coldest and snowiest season, and it can be miserable with temps dropping to -30. Daylight dwindles to a minimum, with only about 6 hours of sunlight.
- Spring: A time of transition. Snow slowly melts, revealing the earth beneath, and temperatures gradually rise, but remain quite chilly, averaging highs around 40°F. Be prepared for lingering snow flurries. Daylight hours start to stretch, reaching up to 16 hours in May.
- Summer: The warmest and shortest season. McCarthy experiences brief bursts of warmth, with highs averaging around 60°F, but don’t be fooled by the occasional sunshine. Daylight hours are at their peak, offering up to 20 hours of sunlight for exploring the landscape.
- Autumn: A breathtaking display of color as the mountains transform into a canvas of reds and oranges. The air gets noticeably crisper, with average lows around 30°F, a clear sign that winter’s icy grip is approaching. Daylight hours rapidly decrease, dropping back down to around 6 hours by November.
Map of McCarthy, Alaska
Where is McCarthy, Alaska? Here’s a map of the town with some points of interest, trailheads, hotels, campgrounds, and restaurants. The town is tiny and theres basically one main road.
Getting to McCarthy, Alaska
Reaching McCarthy, Alaska involves an arduous journey. Thankfully you have a few options on how to get here. Depending on your time constraints and budget, you could do it a few different ways. Here’s a quick breakdown of your options on how to get to McCarthy, AK:
- Drive: This is your most direct option. From Anchorage, you could make the trip in 8.5 hours or so. The final stretch is the poorly maintained gravel McCarthy Road. A lot of car rental company won’t allow you to take it down this road, so make sure to ask. Also make sure to fill up in Chitina!
- Fly: For a faster option, consider flying. If you have the money and are on a tighter schedule this is the way to go. The flight is stunning and it turns an 8 hour trip into a fraction of that. Scheduled flights operate from Anchorage (Copper Valley Air) and Glennallen (Wrangell Mountain Air).
- Shuttle: The cheapest and most adventurous options for getting to McCarthy AK, would be taking the shuttle bus. The Kennecott Shuttle offers daily service from Glennallen. It’s a long trip and there are specific return times you’ll have to adhere to.
Check out our full article on getting to McCarthy: Anchorage to McCarthy, Alaska: The Journey is the Destination
Population of McCarthy, Alaska
The exact population of McCarthy, Alaska can be a bit tricky to nail down. I’ll tell you from first hand experience that the population in McCarthy, Alaska fluctuates drastically. The towns population is next to nothing during the harsh winter months. Driving around I could count the chimney smoke on one hand. I think part of the appeal to living in a place like McCarthy, Alaska is that there isn’t much of a population. And the population that is there, they might not want to be counted, so its best to respect that.
Once mid may comes and the summer tourist season arrives, McCarthy Alaska’s population sky rockets. According to the 2020 census data, the official population of McCarthy, Alaska is 107. However, that doesn’t include all the seasonal workers that migrate there to help support the tourism infrustructe. So that’s why McCarthy, Alaska’s population is a hard number to calculate.
Alaska TV Shows Shot in McCarthy
- Edge of Alaska: Aired on the Discovery Channel from 2014 to 2017 for four seasons with eight episodes each. The show documented the lives of residents who call McCarthy home. It explored the challenges and beauty of living in such a remote location, showcasing the clash between those who wanted to preserve the town’s traditional, off-the-grid way of life and those who saw opportunity in tourism development.
- Life Below Zero: Next Generation: The show I filmed on for a year in McCarthy. We followed the Rolland family and their day to day life. The show was produced by the BBC for National Geographic Channel.
If you want to learn more about Filming in Alaska we have guides on just that, as well as Movies about Alaska, and Famous People from Alaska.
McCarthy, Alaska Massacre
McCarthy’s history isn’t all glacier hikes and copper mines. In 1983 the town experienced one of the most shocking acts of violence in Alaska’s modern history.
Back in 1983, a lone gunman, Louis Hastings, a 39-year-old unemployed computer programmer, unleashed violence on the community. With a population of only 22, the impact was devastating. Six residents were killed, and two others were injured. The reason behind the rampage remains a chilling mystery.
One survivor, Christopher Richards, displayed incredible bravery. Hastings shot him inside his cabin and in a desperate act of self-defense, Richards fought back with a knife and escaped barefoot into the harsh Alaskan winter. The village’s remoteness posed a significant challenge. With no phone service and inaccessible by road during winter, help arrived only after a neighbor heroically transported Richards by snowmobile to a distant airstrip.
News of the murders finally reached the outside world thanks to a private pilot who flew Richards to a nearby town. Troopers then apprehended Hastings, who reportedly offered no resistance. The recovery of the victims was a grim task. Some were found near the airstrip, while others were discovered inside a house riddled with bullet holes.
McCarthy, Alaska FAQs
What is McCarthy, Alaska known for?
McCarthy is the main gateway to Wrangell-St. Elias National Park, the largest national park in the United States. It’s known for glacier tours, the Kennicott Mine National Historic Landmark, flightseeing, whitewater rafting, and being one of the most remote towns accessible by road in Alaska.
How do you get to McCarthy, Alaska?
Most visitors drive the McCarthy Road, a 60-mile gravel road from Chitina that takes about 2 hours. You can also fly in via Wrangell Mountain Air from Glennallen or Copper Valley Air from Anchorage, or take the Kennecott Shuttle bus from Glennallen. Fill up on gas in Chitina before turning onto the McCarthy Road, there’s no gas in McCarthy.
Can you drive a rental car to McCarthy, Alaska?
Many rental car companies prohibit their vehicles on the McCarthy Road due to its rough gravel surface. Confirm with your rental company before booking. If they say no, consider renting a 4×4 from a local Anchorage outfitter that explicitly allows the road.
When is the best time to visit McCarthy, Alaska?
Summer offers the best weather, longest days, and full access to all restaurants, tours, and services. The shoulder seasons (May and September) are quieter and can be spectacular. Winter is brutal, remote, and most services are closed.
How many days do you need in McCarthy, Alaska?
Three days is the sweet spot for most visitors. Enough time to do the glacier, Kennicott Mine, a hike, and a flight-seeing tour without rushing.
Is McCarthy, Alaska worth the drive?
Yes. If you’re the kind of traveler who goes to Alaska for the real thing rather than the cruise-ship version. The McCarthy Road is rough but passable in a standard vehicle. The drive itself through the Wrangell Mountains is one of the most scenic roads in Alaska.
What should I pack for McCarthy, Alaska?
Layers regardless of season, rain gear, bear spray, sturdy hiking boots, bug repellent for summer, and enough food for your stay if you’re arriving outside peak season. We have a full guide on What to Pack for Alaska
Is there cell service in McCarthy, Alaska?
Limited to none. Some providers get a faint signal in certain spots but don’t count on it. Star-link is the best option.
Are there bears in McCarthy, Alaska?
Yes. Both black bears and grizzlies. Carry bear spray when hiking in the backcountry.
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